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Solvent Additive Chart for Various Climates:

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Make your stain & varnish easy to work with in difficult climates.

 

Learn how to customize your varnish & stain in various temperatures and humidities by adding Woodwright brand solvent additives.
Frequently Asked Questions

Get Answers to Commonly Asked Questions
Looking for answers about our products or about your issues pertaining to your specific project? Its very possible that others have asked us the same or similar question as your own. Check through the following list of inquiries to find out.


Q: How much 35260 Catalyst do I add to my varnish?
A: All Woodwright converions varnishes require 4 ounces of 35260 catalyst per gallon prior to spraying. Varnishes that require catalyst include; 9930 E7, 9950 Armor Var Advance, 9934 Enduro Var, 9935 E7 Advance Sealer, 9926 Easy-Sand Sealer, 9070 White Primer, 9075 Factory White Topcoat and 9090 White Hardwood Primer. Please see product label, tech data sheet and MSDS for further information.


Q: If I have applied stain to my project can I let it sit overnight before I apply my seal coat of varnish?
A: We suggest always sealing the same day that you stain. Stain contains resins that will produce a film if left too long to dry. This film can be slick and may prevent proper adhesion for your varnish. If you have stained your project and waited until the next day to varnish you will most likely get wrinkling in your second coat. This happens because the first coat of varnish did not adhere to the wood due to the stain film. When the second coat begins to dry, it shrinks itself around the wood pulling off your seal coat.


Q: What temperature should my varnish be for optimum sprayability?
A: 77 degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal temperature for any Woodwright varnish. If you are not able to reach this temperature, solvents may be used to manipulate varnish viscosity. In cold weather, add TH7100 FloSol. In temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit, add a small amount of TH3700 Slow reducer. Please call to acquire exact additive amounts.

Q: I am a new finisher. How much varnish should be applied per coat?
A: 5 wet mils per coat is ideal. Do not exceed 3 coats at 5 wet mils each. Warranty is void if coating exceeds 5 dry mils. Mil gauges are available at no charge to Woodwright varnish users. Call for yours today! 1-800-322-8172

Q: How do I properly set up my Pressure Pot and HVLP Gun?
A: HVLP stands for, High Pressure Low Volume, these specifics are taken care of within the gun and does not dictate how your gauges should be set.
Proper Set Up:
1. Atomizing Air 65—70 lbs. (gun)
2. Air Pressure 7—8 lbs. (material)
3. Open adjustment for fan and trigger pull all the way for maximum material and trigger pull.
4. Spray a test shot on a scrap piece of wood or a piece of cardboard. The pattern should be OVAL.
5. If the pattern is too big, lower it to the size you want it to be. You will notice that the pattern will become a circle. Now, adjust your trigger to make the pattern OVAL again and you’re done! You have now successfully set up your Pressure Pot and HVLP gun.

Q: Is it okay to spray a Precatalyzed varnish over a Conversion varnish?
A: In most cases, NO. Conversion varnish tightens as it cures, much more so than a precatalyzed varnish. If the conversion varnish is not fully cured when the precat is sprayed on top, it can actually tighten so much that it pops the precat right off. This will usually look like lifting. The only time that it is okay to put precat over conversion varnish is if it is fully cured. Wait a minimum of 30 days. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO SAND JUST BEFORE SPRAYING YOUR NEXT COAT TO ENSURE ADHESION. If this is your situation, please contact your Woodwright rep for instruction.

Q: If I sand at the end of the day, will it be okay to spray my last coat the next day or over the weekend?
A: NO. Any varnish less than 3 weeks old is always in a “curing state”. This means if you sand today, it will continue to get harder and “heal” your sanding scuffs. This will make the sealer coat too hard and too smooth for good adhesion of your next coat. Remember: Catalyzed varnishes are chemically resistant the NEXT DAY, so adhesion must be achieved by means of sanding or “mechanical adhesion”, not by “chemically burning in”. WHEN IN DOUBT, SAND IT OUT.

Q: What guidelines should I follow when staining hard woods, like maple and hickory?
A: Maple should be presanded with a heavy grit sandpaper like 100 or 120 grit. To eliminate the “blotchy” effect of stain, make a pre-stain conditioner by taking 1 part precat to 20 parts TH3000 Lacquer Thinner. Spray this first before staining. Hickory will take stain well, but must be pre-sanded with 100 grit sandpaper before staining. For best results your 1st coat, over stain, should be 8800 Vinyl Sealer or 8820 Low Solids PreCat or low solids catalyzed sealer (20% solids by volume or less) We suggest using a low solids sealer on hickory or maple because it will seal these types of wood best. Also, an important note: when finishing hard woods like maple and hickory, even if you are finishing it natural, with no stain, pre-sand with 100 to 120 grit sandpaper and seal with low solids sealer. This will promote greater adhesion on dense woods. Final coat may be precatalyzed or catalyzed varnish.

Q: What guidelines should I follow when staining porous woods, like pine?
A: Pre-sand as usual. Seal wood with pre-stain conditioner. To make prestain conditioner: Combine 1 part PreCat to 10 parts TH3000 Lacquer Thinner. One thing to consider, when preconditioning wood, is that the stain you are using may need to be slightly darker than usual because the pre-stain conditioner will make your wood less porous and it will not accept the stain as darkly. Please test before applying to entire job.
Thanks for your interest in Woodwright wood finishing products